Sound test
Test your speakers and headset channels before you queue. Left, right, center, bass, and surround output with generated tones.
- Free
- No account needed
- Works in your browser
Output routing: Detected when you play the first tone. Browsers block sound until you click, so press any Play button to start.
Test status
Ready. Press Play on any channel to start.
Left
440Hz · pan -1
Front left channel. Footsteps and gunfire from your left in-game.
Right
440Hz · pan 1
Front right channel. Check your right earcup or speaker.
Center
440Hz · pan 0
Center channel. On stereo output it plays equally in both ears.
Subwoofer
80Hz · pan 0
Low-frequency (LFE) channel. An 80Hz tone for bass drivers or a subwoofer.
Surround Left
660Hz · pan -0.85
Rear left surround. On stereo headphones this plays as a left-panned tone.
Surround Right
660Hz · pan 0.85
Rear right surround. On stereo headphones this plays as a right-panned tone.
Stereo
440Hz
Alternates left then right. Quick check that both ears work.
Channel checklist
- LeftNot checked
- RightNot checked
- CenterNot checked
- SubwooferNot checked
- Surround LeftNot checked
- Surround RightNot checked
- StereoNot checked
Headset channel map
Left ear
Sub
Right ear
Lime dots show which channel is playing. Match what you hear to the labeled ear.
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Testing your gaming audio
What to listen for before ranked and why a two-minute check saves a match.
Plug in every new headset and run a channel test before the first game. It takes two minutes and catches problems that only show up once audio matters: a weak left driver, reversed channels, or a cable that cuts out when you move your head.
A quiet left ear mid-match can cost several rounds before you realize it is hardware, not game settings. A quick left/right tone test flags the problem before you queue. Check both ears, center dialog, and bass rumble on every new pair.
For each channel, listen for clarity and volume balance. Left and Right should hit the correct earcup at equal loudness. Center should feel centered, not pulled to one side. Bass at 80Hz should produce a low thump you can feel in open-back headsets and hear clearly in closed cups. If a surround channel sounds identical to front left or front right, your virtual surround software may be off or your game is outputting stereo only.
Mark each channel Working or Not working as you go. A full pass means you are ready to queue. Any failed channel is worth fixing before ranked: check cables, reinstall audio drivers, or toggle surround settings in your headset software.
Surround sound setup for gaming
5.1 vs 7.1 vs stereo, and when surround actually matters in competitive play.
Stereo (2.0) is what most competitive FPS players use. Valorant, CS2, and Apex output positional audio through left/right panning. A stereo headset with clear, balanced drivers is usually a better buy than a cheap virtual surround headset. If you play these games, prioritize left/right separation over channel count.
5.1 surround adds a center channel, subwoofer, and rear left/right speakers. It helps in story games, sim racers, and titles like Hunt: Showdown where rear audio cues matter. For gaming headsets, 5.1 is usually simulated through DSP rather than separate drivers. If your headset software exposes a 5.1 or 7.1 device, this test sends tones to each channel so you can hear where the virtualizer places them.
7.1 surround adds side channels on top of 5.1. Many gaming headsets offer a virtual 7.1 toggle in their software. This test covers the six 5.1 channels. On a 7.1 device, the surround tones play on the rear pair. A stereo baseline is easier to troubleshoot, so test stereo first and then compare the virtual surround mode on your own headset.
Whatever setup you use, confirm it in your game audio settings. Many titles default to stereo even when your headset software reports surround enabled. Run this test, then jump into a private match or firing range and listen for footsteps from each direction. The tone test catches hardware problems. In-game audio confirms software routing.
Test tone reference
Each channel plays a specific frequency. Left, Right, and Center play 440Hz (A4 note). The subwoofer channel plays 80Hz. Surround channels play 660Hz. The ear or speaker column assumes stereo headphones. On 5.1 output, each tone comes from its own speaker.
| Channel | Frequency | What you should hear | If silent or wrong ear |
|---|---|---|---|
| Left (L) | 440Hz | Tone in left ear only | Cable or driver issue |
| Right (R) | 440Hz | Tone in right ear only | Cable or driver issue |
| Center (C) | 440Hz | Equal in both ears | Balance offset in OS |
| Subwoofer (LFE) | 80Hz | Low rumble in both ears | Driver roll-off or EQ cut |
| Surround Left (SL) | 660Hz | Higher pitch, left ear | Swapped channels or surround setting |
| Surround Right (SR) | 660Hz | Higher pitch, right ear | Swapped channels or surround setting |
Related guides
More on audio testing and peripheral checks.
- Sound Test: How to Check Your Gaming Headset Before You QueueChannel testing, surround vs stereo, and when to return a headset
- Keyboard Test: How to Check for Dead Keys and GhostingTesting switches, anti-ghosting, and NKRO on a new board
Sound test FAQ
Headset testing, surround channels, and troubleshooting quiet or dead speakers.