Dead pixel test

A dead pixel stays black on every color in the cycle. Switch to white and it remains a dark dot. The transistor behind that subpixel has failed, so no light passes through.

A stuck pixel stays one color no matter what fills the screen. On a black background you might see a red, green, blue, or white dot. On white it might disappear if it is stuck on white. Stuck pixels are subpixels frozen in the on position.

Check a new monitor soon after delivery, while the seller’s return period is open. Start with a solid-color test in a dim room. Defects that are invisible during normal browsing can stand out on pure red or pure blue.

A stuck pixel near the center may be more noticeable than one near an edge, but whether it qualifies for return or exchange depends on the exact policy. Document what you find with photos while the screen shows a single bright color.

Take photos while the screen shows solid red, green, and blue. Support may ask for proof of a bright or dark subpixel defect, but the required evidence and exchange criteria vary by model. Note the pixel location relative to the center of the screen.

Return and warranty policies vary by seller, region, model, and defect type. Check the seller’s actual deadline and the manufacturer’s exact pixel policy; do not assume a generic 30-day period, warranty length, or zero-defect rule.

For a suspected stuck pixel, follow the manufacturer’s guidance before trying any home remedy. Avoid pressure, heat, or tools that could damage the panel or affect a claim. A persistent defect is best documented and handled through the seller or manufacturer’s process.

Dead pixels rarely recover. If gentle fixes fail and the defect sits in your main viewing area, exchange the monitor while you still can. A single bright pixel in the center of a gaming monitor is distracting during dark scenes and HDR content.